The Hidden Heritage of San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf
A San Francisco native, alumna Emi Takahara always wondered why so many locals dismiss the historic Fisherman’s Wharf as a tourist trap. Sure, it has overpriced food, but it also has a culinary history that might surprise you—as well as longtime businesses trying to weather the changing times. In this episode, Emi talks with producer Willa Seidenberg about her thesis, The Restaurant That Started It All: The Hidden Heritage of San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, how Italian immigrants shaped Fisherman’s Wharf in the nineteenth century, and how it’s evolving in the twenty-first.
Monterey-style boats or “Putt-Putts” in Fisherman’s Lagoon are predecessors to today’s modern fishing boats. Photo by Emi Takahara. 
Crab vendors on SF’s Taylor Street, ca. 1920s. Source: OpenSFHistory. 
Mike Geraldi, founder of Fishermen’s Grotto No. 9, at his crab stand on Fisherman’s Wharf, ca. 1934. Source: Fishermen’s Grotto Facebook page. 
Fisherman’s Wharf, September 1943. Fishermen’s Grotto No. 9 is in the background. Photo by Ann Rosner, Library of Congress. Foundsf.org. 
The Venetian Room, interior of original Fishermen’s Grotto No. 9 dining room. Source: Fishermen’s Grotto Recipe Book. 
Early Fishermen’s Grotto No. 9 menu from November 18, 1936. Source: Anthony Geraldi. 
Fishermen’s Grotto No. 9, ca 1958. Source: Anthony Geraldi. 
Left, Alioto’s Restaurant, Right, Fishermen’s Grotto No. 9, ca early 1950s. Source: Anthony Geraldi. 
From left to right: “Tommy” (Ty Tam, server), “Hoss” (Khossrov Shustar, bartender), Tito Quezada (server), Michael Geraldi, Anthony Geraldi, “Nang” (Alex Giang, bartender), Romeo Rivas (host). Source: Anthony Geraldi.
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Featuring
Emi Takahara (MHC ’23)
Emi Takahara is a recent graduate of the University of Southern California’s Master in Heritage Conservation program. She is currently interning at Historic Resources Group as the Community Outreach Assistant and Survey Intern. Originally from San Francisco, she is interested in the intersection of food, community, and heritage conservation, especially in our underrecognized communities in California.
Learn More
The Restaurant that Started it All: The Hidden Heritage of San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf by Emi Takahara
“Baghdad by the Bay” 1960s San Francisco travelogue in the series “America!” produced and hosted by Jack Douglas
Fisherman’s Wharf website
CRABS AT FISHERMAN’S WHARF, SAN FRANCISCO – 1960S – Vintage clip of crab fisherman on the wharf.
USC Heritage Conservation Programs
Your Hosts
Co-host Trudi Sandmeier is the Associate Dean for Academic Affairs, Director of Graduate Programs in Heritage Conservation, and Professor of Practice at the USC School of Architecture. Her work centers on the conservation of the recent past and the impact of under-recognized communities on the historic built environment. Read more in her USC faculty bio.
Co-host Cindy Olnick serves as both Associate Director of Heritage Conservation at USC and a communications consultant for heritage conservation, historic preservation, and the built environment. Read more in her USC faculty bio.
Podcast producer Willa Seidenberg taught audio journalism and podcasting at USC’s Annenberg School of Communication and Journalism, while pursuing a USC Master of Heritage Conservation degree. She retired from teaching and earned her degree in 2023.
A 20-year broadcast journalist and an inaugural fellow with USC’s Center for Excellence in Teaching, Willa founded Annenberg Radio News, the university’s radio news operation; and Intersections South LA, a reporting lab and community website for South Los Angeles.
With photographer William Short, Willa is the author of two oral history/photo projects: A Matter of Conscience: GI Resistance During the Vietnam War and Memories of the American War: Stories From Viet Nam.
